RESTAURANT HIGH CHAIR by 💔LaQuiata💔 - Musely
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RESTAURANT HIGH CHAIR

posted in DIY & Crafts
11/19/2013
  • 3 – 1×2 boards, 8′ long
    1 – 1×4 board, 15″ long
    1 – 1×10 board, 15″ long (you can substitute 3 – 1x4s joined instead if you don’t have a 1×10 laying around)

    1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
    wood glue
    wood filler
    120 grit sandpaper
    primer
    wood conditioner
    paint
    paint brush

  • Tools
    measuring tape
    square
    pencil
    hammer
    safety glasses
    hearing protection
    Kreg Jig™
    drill
    circular saw
    sander

  • Cut list
    4 – 1×2 @ 26 3/16″ (Legs, both ends cut at 5 degrees parallel to each other)
    2 – 1×2 @ 15″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, bottom sides)
    2 – 1×2 @ 11 3/4″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, middle sides)

  • 2 – 1×2 @ 10 11/16″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, top sides)
    2 – 1×2 @ 16″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, bottom supports)
    1 – 1×4 @ 12 9/16″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to

  • each other, seat back)
    1 – 1×2 @ 12″ (short point to short point, ends beveled at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, front)
    1 – 1×10 @ 13″ (short point to short point, ends beveled at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, seat)

  • Build the sides as shown above. Drill pocket holes in all the horizontal boards ends, two per end. Mark the sides, clamp, and glue and screw together with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
    Build the sides as shown above. Drill pocket holes in all the horizontal boards ends, two per end. Mark the sides, clamp, and glue and screw together with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
  • Now here is where things get a little tricky. Drill pocket holes on both ends of the bottom supports, two per end. Mark the sides 3 1/2″ up. Then glue, clamp and screw with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws the bottom supports to the sides. Center the bottom supports on the width of the legs. A right angle
    Now here is where things get a little tricky. Drill pocket holes on both ends of the bottom supports, two per end. Mark the sides 3 1/2″ up. Then glue, clamp and screw with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws the bottom supports to the sides. Center the bottom supports on the width of the legs. A right angle
  • clamp would be super handy here, but I don’t have one, and was just fine.

  • Drill pocket holes in the back of the seat. Attach with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
    Drill pocket holes in the back of the seat. Attach with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
  • Drill pocket holes on both ends of the front and attach to the tops of the legs with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
    Drill pocket holes on both ends of the front and attach to the tops of the legs with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
  • The seat will sit at the back, leaving room for the legs at the front. Cut the seat so the ends are beveled at 5 degrees of square, with the seat length short point to short point 13″ long. On the underside of the seat, drill three pocket holes along each of the beveled edges. Screw the seat to the
    The seat will sit at the back, leaving room for the legs at the front. Cut the seat so the ends are beveled at 5 degrees of square, with the seat length short point to short point 13″ long. On the underside of the seat, drill three pocket holes along each of the beveled edges. Screw the seat to the
  • to the sides

  • I finished mine by filling pocket holes with wood filler. It took three applications of wood filler to completely fill the holes. Then a thorough sanding with 120 grit sandpaper. Then primer and paint, followed by a spray on top coat. Add a strudy strap to the center and a safety belt

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